After the most memorable Roman adventures, we traded our city penthouse for a seaside villa on the island of Ischia. Just off the coast of Naples, Ischia is where the Italians go for summer vacation.
One train ride, a taxi, a ferry, and one more taxi later, we arrived at the quaintest villa in Ischia with the most breathtaking views of the sea. To be honest, I didn’t really know much about Ischia before visiting but as soon as we arrived, I immediately knew that I was going to be in love with this island.
Our villa was located in Casamicciola Terme, on the northern coast of the island. The island is relatively small and easy to get around. Aside from scooters, the main methods of transportation are buses and taxis. Conveniently, our villa was a short 5 minute walk down hill to the bus stop (uphill was another story babes!). With Apple Maps in hand, navigating the bus routes was a breeze. Pro-tip: If you go, I highly recommend purchasing a bus pass (we paid about 17 euro for a 7 day pass). You’ll validate the bus pass on-board your first ride, and after that you can hop on without scanning. However, be sure to keep it on you in case a security officer asks see it (yes, they do randomly check).
We kept our first evening low key, heading to the local grocery store to stock up on food and drinks before cooking dinner at the villa. It was the perfect start to embracing the island chapter of our trip.
Ischia Travel Diaries
Day 1: Island Life
After the nonstop hustle of Rome, our first full day in Ischia was all about slowing down and taking in our beautiful island surroundings. We kicked it off with a relaxing day at our villa. We had specifically chosen this villa because it checked all of the boxes for our group – plenty of space, gorgeous views, and of course … a pool! So naturally, Day 1 was pretty much our pool day. Think sunbathing by the pool, floating in the pool, reading by the pool, eating by the pool – basically, if it could be done by the pool, we did it LOL. For the first time in a few weeks, it felt really nice to not have a set plan.
I did get pulled into town for a quick morning errand where I discovered and quickly fell in love with a local cafe called, Di Massa Gelaterria Pasticceria. I am quite literally still thinking about it and it’s been weeks since I was in Ischia. The pastries, gelato, coffee, and drinks were all chef’s kiss. I loved starting my day with a cafe latte (with real milk btw) and a fresh pastry. This quickly became my morning go-to!
For dinner, we discovered L’ancora restaurant in Casamicciola.
Let me just say, their spaghetti with clams dish was my fav! So fresh and simple yet full of flavor. And don’t even get me started with the desserts! The pistachio or nutella flavored cheesecakes were so special with more of a mousse consistency than your typical cheesecake. And we can’t forget the crepes filled with pistachio cream that literally disappeared off the plate. The desserts were heavenly! So much so that on Day 1 we all ordered desserts to share, but on every visit back we each ordered our own dessert. Sorry (not sorry), they were too good to share.
Day 1 Top Visited Spots of the Day:
- Di Massa Gelaterria Pasticceria
- L’ancora
Day 2: Giardino Eden Beach Club Day
It’s beach club day! We started our day bright and early to catch a bus to to the dock where our boat taxi awaited. One of the perks of our beach club was complimentary roundtrip boat transportation to/from the club if you dined at their restaurant for dinner.
The club books up fast, so we reserved our spots at Giardino Eden Beach Club a couple months in advance. It’s located on Cartaromana Bay with stunning views of Aragonese Castle.
Pricing begins around 60 euro per person and it varied depending on the type of cabana/seating and whether you select beachfront or poolside. We opted for beachfront cabanas and sunbeds. Food and drinks were an additional charge. With direct sea access and picturesque views, it was a splurge worthy experience.
I’m not really a beach girl but beach club? Absolutely my scene! I mean, what’s not to like about lounging in a cabana while someone brings me yummy food and drinks all day? Not to mention, “the kids” had so much fun swimming in the crystal-clear Mediterranean sea. Watching them brought me so much joy. This turned out to be one of the highlights of our time in Ischia. The beach club experience is officially TTL approved!
Day 2 Top Visited Spots of the Day:
- Giardino Eden Beach Club @edenischia
Day 3: Dinner at Trattoria Il Focolare
After the beach club we all needed another day of rest and chilling at the villa. After my morning trip to Di Massa, I spent my day reading and taking cat naps, while the rest of the group enjoyed swimming with poolside hugo spritzes and prosciutto e melone.
That evening, we experienced yet another unforgettable meal at Trattoria Il Focolare, a family-owned and operated restaurant unlike any other. The restaurant is nestled in the hills of Fiaiano with breathtaking views and rich family history. From start to finish, the experience was top notch. Upon arrival, the staff welcomed us with wine and complimentary appetizers on their terrace while they prepared our table.
The menu featured many local dishes including Coniglio all’Ischitana, an Ischian specialty made with rabbit (very common on the Island).
Before the night was over, the sister/co-owner welcomed us to join her on a behind the scenes tour where we met the chefs (her two brothers) and her grandmother in the kitchen. They even spoiled us with desserts to sample.
Finally, the sister led us into their wine cave where she shared a little more history of their family restaurant. The entire staff’s passion and warmth were infectious and truly special. This restaurant is a true testament to Ischian hospitality. It was an evening I’ll cherish forever.
Day 3 Top Visited Spots of the Day:
Day 4: Butter Yellow Day
It’s butter yellow day! After last year’s 4th of July gathering, we decided to make it a tradition to choose a color theme for our family photo. This year, we thought butter yellow would be so chic. And it was! Seeing everyone in their outfits lit my heart up so much! It wasn’t just about the outfits (though I loved seeing everyone all dressed up and looking beautiful!), it was about creating a beautiful tradition and something we could all look forward to.
The day itself was pretty chill and everyone kind of did their own thing. But just as the sun began to set, we all gathered in our matching yellow outfits to take our photos. And we nailed it babes, the most perfect family photo! We finished the night by going back to our favorite neighborhood restaurant.
Day 5: Day at the Villa
Day 5 was another day of you guessed it, relaxing and was honestly our most kick-back day. I spent the morning at Di Massa (again LOL), went to the market, and spent the rest of the day just chilling with everyone. No phone, no schedule, just me soaking up villa life. It felt so good to disconnect and really take in this wonderful place with my favorite people.
Day 6: Forio Shopping Day
Day 6 was truly such a special day or should I say night!? We decided to explore the shopping area near the Forio port.
Babes, there were tons of local shops and restaurants – the perfect area to shop souvenirs and gifts. We happened upon a wonderful jewelry store called La Conchiglia (stay tuned for a full breakdown of this in a future blog). This store is a wonderful collaboration between a father-son duo, Claudio and Antonio Cigliano. The father Claudio who carries on his family’s pottery business (passed down to him from his father) and his son Antonio, who designs a range of jewelry items from everyday wear to fine jewelry. We spent HOURS in this store! The boys had fun bonding with Claudio, learning about him personally, everything from his business to his role in local politics and even his love for fishing. The rest of our group was captivated by Antonio’s artistry and worked with Antonio to customize their jewelry pieces. What made the night so memorable wasn’t just the shopping, it was the way Claudio and Antonio welcomed us like old friends. By the end of the night, Claudio invited Carol’s sons, Josh and Lukas to join them fishing in a few days. Like who does that?! Only the most sweetest father-son duo in all of Ischia. It was the most unexpected and heartwarming end to the night.
Day 6 Top Visited Spots of the Day:
- La Conchiglia
- Ristorante Pizzeria La Corte – Corso Matteo Verde, 16, 80075 Forio NA, Italy
Day 7: Day Trip to Capri
It’s day 7, and we were ready for a little adventure. Carol and I had been scheming for a BFF day trip to Capri for months but when it came down to it, we couldn’t leave our little besties behind. So, a family trip to Capri it was! I have always wanted to go to Capri, and it turns out Ischia is only a short ferry ride away. We took a ferry directly from Ischia to Capri and in just under an hour we deboarded to find ourselves mesmerized by the postcard views of Capri – turquoise waters scattered with luxury yachts and cliffside views that were nothing short of amazing.
Our time on the island was limited and we came with a very clear mission in mind – to purchase handmade sandals. The day before our trip we stumbled across a TikTok video about Canfora, the legendary sandal shop where Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis herself had pairs custom-made. They still make the exact pair of iconic gold chain sandals Jackie O famously wore when she visited the island in 1962. Babes, the sandals are so me and I had to have them! We arrived at the Marina Grande and made our way to Capri Town. The lines for a taxi and train were crazy and we weren’t wasting any time. We decided to walk but let me tell you, it was like walking a Stair Master on level 20 LOL. Every time we thought we were about to reach the top, a new flight of stairs would reveal itself. Exhausting? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely. The views were spectacular, and conquering the stairs as a family was an adventure in itself.
We made our way through Capri Town, making a bee line past all the finest luxury shops and finally made it to Canfora!
We quickly made our selections and the sandal artisans went to work. We were told to come back for the final fitting in about an hour so we headed off to lunch at the famous La Capannina Restaurant. The walls were decorated with photos of all the famous visitors and babes, it was worth the hype! Carol and I shared the most delicious homemade ravioli and zucchini fries!
I so desperately wish I could recreate the ravioli recipe but I know there’s one ingredient I can’t replicate – Italian tomatoes. They just make everything taste better. On our way out, we met the owner, who was sooo sweet and graciously took a photo with me. It was the cherry on top of the most lovely lunch time experience.
Now the clock was ticking and we needed to rush back to Canfora for our final fitting. Wellllll, we may have stopped for gelato along the way but I swear we were rushing LOL.
I purchased two pairs of sandals and they exceeded every expectation. Elegant, timeless, and unlike anything I own. I love that I’ll forever have a piece of Capri to cherish.
Time quickly slipped away so we raced to grab a convertible taxi back to the port.
Our taxi driver did his best to get us to the port as quickly as possible then we ran to our dock only to discover we had already missed our ferry by 5 minutes. The funny thing is every other ferry we’d taken before this one was running late (our morning ferry to Capri was over 30 minutes late) but not this one! With no more ferries to Ischia that evening, we regrouped, and found a workaround. We discovered that we could take a ferry back to Naples and then double back to Ischia. We took it all in stride and didn’t let it deter us from having a great night. Overall, I’d say our Capri day was successful and I know missing our ferry will give us something to laugh about for years to come.
Day 7 Top Visited Spots of the Day:
- La Capannina @lacapanninacapri
- Amedeo Canfora Capri Sandals @canforacaprisandals
- Gelateria Buonocore Capri @gelateriabuonocorecapri
Day 8: Final Day in Ischia
Our final day in Ischia was a beautiful day of mixed experiences. Everyone had their own wish list of things to do, so we split off in a few different directions throughout the day to get in some last adventures before saying farewell to island life.
Josh and Lukas started their day with an early morning fishing trip with Claudio and Antonio. They came back with the most amazing fisherman stories and even caught over 30 fish!
Claudio so graciously arranged for the catch to be prepared for lunch at Core a Core, a restaurant in Forio. Before lunch, we made one last stop at Di Massa (tears) and then gathered for what became one of the most extraordinary meals of my life.
Course by course, we indulged in the freshest seafood imaginable – every bite exquisite! Midway through, Claudio surprised the boys with a little ceremony where he presented Josh and Lukas with certificates, officially knighting them as Ischian fisherman. Great food, captivating conversations, and lots of wine all around with our newfound friends. I can only describe this moment as pure joy.
After lunch, Claudio took us on a little walk through Forio, casually introducing us to some really wonderful locals who literally welcomed us into their home to share a peek of the most breathtaking hidden views of the sea right from their balcony. We then headed back to La Conchiglia for a final private shopping experience (the shop was still closed) to pick up a few last minute gifts for family and friends (and maybe a few more pieces for myself hehehe). Three hours later (okay maybe 4), we were still there, shopping, chatting and soaking in every last bit of time with Claudio and Antonio. As a farewell gift, Claudio gifted me a custom bracelet that I’ll cherish forever.
Hot Springs
Before joining us a little late for lunch, Josh and Izzy were were living their best spa life at Giardini Poseidon Terme, one of Ischia’s most famous thermal parks. The park features over 20 pools filled with natural springs originating from the volcanic system of the island. Each pool is heated to a perfect temperature for different healing properties. They said you could easily spend the entire day there. Pro Tip: Don’t bring too much stuff if you don’t want to pay for a locker. Just bring what you will feel comfortable carrying with you (e.g. a waterproof pouch to carry your wallet and phone). Also note that you’ll need to wear a swim cap which you can purchase on-site for 3 Euros.
As for the pools, Josh & Izzy followed the recommended route, entering about 13 of the pools in chronological order, with the temperatures gradually getting hotter, and ultimately reaching the hot to cold plunge pools. They ended with a Japanese pool that had hot and cold rocks on each side of the pool to walk on. Josh and Izzy also enjoyed many of the massage water falls located in and out of the pools.
The beautiful sand beach area stayed pretty packed but fortunately the thermal pools weren’t nearly as crowded. Be prepared to walk some distance including up and down lots of steps. You’ll need to clean off in a shower and take your shoes off before entering the pools but it’s worth it because the pools are very clean. While they didn’t indulge, there are three restaurants on-site including a buffet. They both agreed that the park itself is very beautiful, especially once you reached the higher terraces and could look out at the ocean and the park. Josh and Izzy highly recommend visiting!
Scarrupata Beach Hike
Meanwhile, May and her boyfriend Miles set off on a more rugged adventure for a beach day on the opposite side of the island. Using the All Trails app, they discovered a “trail” down hundreds of stairs leading to Scarrupata Beach – a true hidden gem.
At the bottom of all these precarious stairs is La pace, a secluded beach club and restaurant that’s typically accessible by reservation and a boat taxi. Luckily for May and Miles, the restaurant happily welcomed them. Their ultimate award were chilled Hugo spritzes, comfy beach chairs overlooking the ocean, and calamari that May swears was the best she’s ever had. And when it was time to leave, they wisely opted for a boat taxi back to Sant’ Angelo port because there was no way they wanted to climb back up all those stairs!
Farewell Dinner
For our final Ischian dinner, we all met back up at Il Giardino Mediterraneo (The Mediterranean Garden) perched high in the hills. To get there, you have to take very narrow roads, so keep in mind you’ll need to take a small taxi or scooter (no vans or buses). When you arrive, you immediately walk through a beautiful garden.
Then to our surprise, we were greeted by a ride operator who offered us a ride up to the restaurant via a monorail lift. Otherwise we could take a walk up steep, narrow stairs. We had our Stair Master fix in Capri so we obviously opted for the lift LOL. The lift was fun and only mildly frightening but so worth it – the view was amazing!
The restaurant seating is an outdoor terrace overlooking the restaurant’s winery with panoramic views of the town and Mediterranean Sea below. It was absolutely jaw dropping! It honestly felt like the most magical farewell dinner. We enjoyed our food but the ambience really took it up a notch. I had risotto and it was insanely flavorful and decadent. As for price, this was definitely one of the more expensive meals we had in Ischia so you’re definitely paying a little extra for the location. After dinner, we headed back to the villa to pack up for our trek back to Rome. I slipped off to bed pretty quickly, while the kids said farewell to our villa with music, laughter, and a little dance party. Honestly, hearing their laughter put me to sleep with a smile on my face.
Day 8 Top Visited Spots of the Day:
- Ristorante Core a Core @ristorantecoreacore
- Giardini Poseidon Terme
- Ristorante La Pace @lapaceallascarrupata
- Spiaggia Scarrupata
- Il Giardino Mediterraneo Ischia @il_giardino_mediterraneo
Day 9: Farewell to Ischia
Sadly, it was time to say farewell to Ischia. Babes, if you ever thought of exploring island life in the bay of Naples don’t miss out on Ischia. It has such a local charm that really lets you see into the culture of southern Italy in such an authentic way. While I loved visiting Capri, it felt like going to Disneyland for the day – crowded with tourists and more expensive all around. A few days in Capri is plenty! Ischia on the other hand is somewhere you go to fit in among the locals. It’s somewhere you’ll want to stay and explore all the beauty the island has to offer like great food, warm culture, beaches, wineries, and volcanic hot springs. There is so much to do at all price points. I’m so happy we discovered this island and I’m already dreaming of my return. This trip was a 1,000,000,000/10 experience. I’ll cherish these memories forever!
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